THE RUNDOWN:
- Affordable skincare brand The Ordinary are launching a new exfoliating lip serum: The Ordinary, PHA 5%
- The gentle lip exfoliant contains gentle alpha hydroxy acids and poly hydroxy acids for smooth, hydrated lips
- The serum will retail for $14.60 and will launch on September 24
Everyone has their beauty bugbear, and mine is extremely dry lips. Ever since I took Roaccutane for hormonal acne five years ago, I have had chronically dry, flaky lips. It’s a heavy cross to bear, but happily, it does make me the perfect crash-test dummy for The Ordinary PHA 5%, an acid lip exfoliator that launches on September 28.
For me, it’s pretty easy to measure any hydrating lip product’s performance. I’m constantly looking for the best hydrating lip products on the market, and my handbag is reliably full of balms, glosses, lip oils and overnight masks. While these provide short-term relief, they do tend to sit on the surface of my lips, and I haven’t found a product that makes a long-term difference. I stick to tinted lip balms and oils because even the most hydrating lipstick ends up looking flaky and like I’ve been eating a pastry. Not what I’m generally after. I also have a single and infuriating recurring red dry patch that, while in the scheme of things, a minor imperfection has ruined countless selfies, which is, in my book, a major crime.
So, I was cautiously optimistic about The Ordinary PHA 5% Exfoliating Lip Serum when I was sent it to trial back in August.
What Does The Ordinary PHA 5% Lip Serum Do?
The pitch for this lip treatment is that its formula, which includes low molecular-weight polyhydroxy acids (the gentlest exfoliating acids), works over time to buff away dead skin cells, smooth lips, and increase hydration.
WSGN research by The Ordinary found that while interest in lip care as an extension of facial care had increased, just like we’ve seen with abrasive face scrubs as a method of exfoliation, social media mentions of “lip scrubs” had declined by 82%. Most of us can attest that the concoctions often leave our lips sticky and sore, and random flecks of sugar all over our faces.
Enter this serum.
The formula has a few standouts worth mentioning. There’s daucus carota sativa extract, an antioxidant that also gives the liquid its bubblegum-pink hue. Then comes gluconolactone, the PHA at a 5% concentration, which is the real star here. Because of its high molecular weight, it’s incredibly gentle—it buffs away dead skin cells gradually while also helping lips hold onto hydration over time. To back it up, the serum also includes a small amount of citric, malic and tartaric acids—all alpha hydroxy acids, but the mild kind, so they can target those stubborn flaky patches without causing the burn or peel you’d get from something like glycolic or lactic acid. Together, the two families of acids are balanced in low concentrations, which means you can use the serum regularly without worrying about over-exfoliation or irritation. That’s ideal for anyone, like me, who’s dry but also easily sensitised.
How Do You Use The Ordinary PHA 5%?
I apply The Ordinary PHA 5% at night. It’s slightly thicker and stickier than water, which makes it easier to control. I use the pipette to deposit a little bit on my finger, then smooth it over my lips. It has a very slight, satisfying tingle as it gets to work, which soon settles. The formula dries down into a softly tacky film—it feels hydrating and protective rather than sticky. I’m careful not to go over the border of my lips. While they weren’t irritated most nights, I was a little haphazard in my application and ended up with a rash around my mouth (thankfully short-lived).
You could apply a balm over this, but even with my very dry lips, I don’t feel I need to, a testament to its effectiveness as a hydrator.
Does The Ordinary PHA 5% Serum Work?
I’m happy to say I had a great experience with this product when I used it for a month. Immediately, I noticed that when I woke up in the morning, my lips felt soft and hydrated. Over a few weeks of use, I saw the stubborn dry patches disappear, I could wear lipstick without flaking, and my bare lips looked smoother. After a month of use, they look soft and even in tone, and the very stubborn dry patch has blessedly disappeared. While nothing will make your lips bigger, having properly hydrated lips maximises their volume and definition. This is definitely a product I’ll keep using, and after applying it every night for a month, I’ve barely made a dent in it—so it’s well worth its price point.
Where To Buy The Ordinary PHA 5%
The Ordinary will launch PHA 5% on September 24 via the brand’s website, where there is currently a waitlist. The product will roll out at the brand’s regular retailers shortly afterwards. Dates are as follows:
- September 26th: Adore Beauty, Myer, Sephora
- October 15th: Priceline
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