What does a “modern-day prince” smell like? According to perfumer Pierre Guéros, it’s a mix of citrus, spice, and quiet power. Here, he takes us inside the creation of Elie Saab L’Homme and shares the inspirations, memories, and materials that shaped the scent.
How did you get into the world of perfume? I’ve always had a creative soul, a desire to express my vision of the world through drawings, stories and poems. I also had a boundless love of nature and a certain idea of beauty. One day, [while studying biochemistry, biology and life science,] I went with friends to the open days for ISIPCA [a school in Versailles offering training in perfume, cosmetics and food flavours]. From the moment I walked through the gates, I was impacted by the world of fragrances.
Do you have an early scent memory? My father was a furrier and had a workshop in Paris’ 10th arrondissement where I loved spending time. There were skins, leather and furniture containing the precious furs, and this atmosphere has inspired many of my creations.
What is your perfume signature? I love simple formulas and strong statements; it makes the message clearer and more direct. Certain raw materials like cardamom, magnolia, vetiver and geranium also inspire me.
How was working with Elie Saab? I knew Elie Saab was very involved in the development of his fragrances, and I had the pleasure of seeing this when I went to meet him and his son, Elie Jr, in the haute couture lounges of their boutique in Paris. We finalised the fragrance together surrounded by haute couture. It was an extraordinary moment for me.
What was your inspiration for creating Elie Saab L’Homme? Creating L’Homme eau de parfum began in Beirut, because Elie Saab [was born there and] has been a great source of inspiration. We wanted to maintain a tension and balance between East and West, between light and shade, between the rigorous and fabulous, which is the very image of Elie Saab. [We also wanted] to find and maintain a balance between power, masculinity and a refined, sophisticated presence.
Who do you see wearing the scent? I envisage someone who makes a statement, who has an aura that attracts the eye. A modern-day prince, who is attached to heritage, fine materials and craftsmanship, who also lives in the city.
BEAUTY NOTES:
We asked Guéros to take us through Elie Saab L’Homme.
Top notes: “Two types of pepper from Madagascar: pink pepper leaf essence for tenderness and black pepper essence for projection. I’ve also added two citrus notes: Italian bergamot and fresh lemon.”
Heart notes: “I wanted to tell a sophisticated story. That’s why we chose to use a round, powerful but smooth Haitian vetiver, along with a slightly smoky vetiver. We sought to support it with … a cedar heart.”
Base notes: “These are the memory of the perfume. They remain on a fabric. The base note is formed by warm balsamic notes with an elegant, leathery [touch], using two contrasting patchouli fractions.”
